4 Day Isle of Mull Itinerary

Come with me on an island holiday. The catch? It's an Island right here in Scotland, so my chances of sun are… limited. But rain or shine, I’m going to give you my itinerary for making the best out of your long weekend on the Isle of Mull.

I wouldn’t usually say that the journey is more beautiful than the destination, but this journey is a pretty sight for sure. Whether you're taking on the drive from Edinburgh or opting for green travel by public transport, the views won't disappoint. Personally, I travel most of the time in Scotland via public transport for two reasons. First, I don’t have a car or a UK license for that matter. Two, it's just so dang easy.

It does well to be prepared, whether you're driving or not. Leaving from Edinburgh, head west passing Glasgow and Loch Lomond, but make sure to refill your petrol (or snack bag for our public transport users), because refuelling stations might be few and far between. If you have opted to travel via car, make sure to book your space on the ferry well in advance, as there are only so many vehicles allowed on the vessel, aka another reason I find it easier to opt to leave your wheels behind.

It’s about a 3-hour drive or a 4-and-a-half-hour train journey from Edinburgh’s city centre to the Oban Ferry Terminal. From the terminal, the ferry ride takes exactly an hour. My suggestion to make the most of your day is to leave Edinburgh no later than 9 AM, aiming to make the 12:15 PM ferry.

Arriving at Craignure ferry port, your accommodation at the Isle of Mull Hotel & Spa is less than 5 minutes down the road. Check into your room, put down the bags, and get ready to explore more of the island before returning for a luxe dinner. I’m choosing to stay close to my temporary home, diving into the personal Hot Tub adjacent to my suite, but a seat on one of the benches facing the Craignure Bay beyond would’ve sufficed as well. Watching the CalMac ferries come in and out of port while soaking up the sun, along with the warm bubbles, dissolves away the stresses of travel, transporting me to a tranquil state of mind. 

After cleaning up, I was treated to a fantastic Oran na Mara Bistro dinner. The restaurant has views overlooking the bay, where I enjoyed a sunset while indulging in a fabulous meal. Most people would have ordered seafood, and trust me, looking at neighbouring tables' dishes, I wish I could have. Limited by allergies, I opted for the steak and was truly pleasantly rewarded. As a treat, I got some locally produced ice cream to follow. 

It was an early night for me, as I retired to my room after dinner, but I needed energy on my side for what I had planned for the next day. 

Early mornings can be worth it – especially when its to see puffins! These peculiar little birds only come to nest during certain months and there was no way I was missing it! I joined a local boat tour, Turus Mara for a full day of exploring the seas and meeting a few hundred of the feathered friends. 

Gaelic for ‘Journey by Sea’, Turus Mara is a family-run boat tour operation that has been running since 1973. From its origins in small craft boats to the upgraded larger boats used today, you have more options depending on the time of year and availability. You can opt to get a lift from the Craignure Ferry Port for those coming in for the day from Oban or can drive yourself to the Ulva Ferry port where the boat leaves. 

The whole experience was one to remember. Along the 40-minute journey to Staffa, the captain pointed out wildlife, keystone rocks, the landscape, and other noticeable features we passed, ensuring the passengers stayed informed and offering some relevance to the journey. Arriving at Staffa itself was something out of a fairytale. An island made of hexagonal stone structures opened into Fingal’s Cave, which looked like ancient gods had carved it. We could not only see this stunning mystery of geology from afar, but the captain also skillfully pulled the boat to the dock just long enough to let the passengers off to explore the half-mile-long island. Giving us an hour to explore, I highly recommend bringing snacks to enjoy after walking into the cave and exploring the island's high cliffs. Just hold onto your trash until you find a proper bin.. 

After exploring Staffa, the boat returned to take us to our next location, the Treshnish Isles. Specifically to Lunga, the largest of the Treshnish Isles and home to thousands of birds. Here, you will find thousands of puffins burrowing in the rocky cliff faces of the islands. They are inquisitive little birds and comfortable enough in their burrows that you can get strikingly close. But be sure not to get distracted by the abundance of puffins at the beginning of the walk on this island. If you continue up the path, you will come around the corner to find the large, black Harp Rock. Only the black is not rock, it’s birds! I’ve truly never seen anything like it. 

After a full day on the sea, nothing feels better than a warm bubble bath to scrub the salt that's stuck to my cheeks and hair. How could I turn down a proper bath in a copper tub? I feel like a queen in this suite - personal patio with a hot tub, copper bath, and king-sized bed - coming back from a day of adventures before indulging in yet another phenomenal dinner. 

Now that we’ve explored the Scottish Seas around the island, it's time to explore the island itself. My goal is to explore the island's largest burgh, Tobermory, before exploring more of the wild parts of the island. 

A bus picks me up right outside the hotel, headed for Tobermory, which is just a short hour's journey. A perk of bringing your car is that driving cuts that time to just over 30 minutes. I use the time to reflect on the incredible day before and, more accurately, to curate my Instagram post because who doesn't want puffins on their profile? 

If you have never been to the picturesque seaside town of Tobermory, I would compare it to a storybook. It is a quaint area with colourful building facades overlooking the glittering waters of Tobermory Bay, home to a collection of small shops, local museums, and a distillery. After a small nosy around the shops, I took my time getting familiar with the island's history at the Mull Museum. From ancient relics to vintage local guides, it was interesting to learn about the area. 

A few doors down, I wandered into the Hebridean Whale Centre, something I’d been looking forward to. As a whale lover from an early age, I downloaded the Hebridean Whale & Dolphin Trust tracking app shortly after moving to Scotland. Here you can buy merchandise to support the organisation's cause of studying and protecting the local sea mammals, and learn more about the animals. You can even sign up to take a whale and dolphin spotting tour! It's a must-do for me next time I’m on the island. 

Continuing north up the main street, eventually you will come to a wooded path that takes you to the Tobermory War Memorial and the Tobermory Lighthouse. I suggest seeing the memorial first. It's at the start of the path but has a few steep steps to get there, so it's better to pay your respects early. The path to the lighthouse is about a 30-minute walk, and the views are gorgeous the whole way. If you are lucky, you might catch sight of dolphins, or if you’re fortunate, orca whales cresting the small waves. 

Enjoy your time in the small town afterwards. Stop into the distillery, enjoy coffee from a cafe, and try out the local ice cream! Take your time and take it in, the seaside town is special. 

After a long weekend of adventure and relaxation, it’s time to head back to the mainland. We opt for the reasonably timed ferry to enjoy breakfast overlooking the water one last time, revelling in the small luxury of freshly pressed coffee and croissants. 

On the ferry crossing towards Oban, I reminisce on the weekend and keep my eyes peeled on the waves, thinking about all I’ve learned and seen. When we return to the port in Oban, we look at each other, considering maybe we could squeeze in one more day of adventure and stay one more night near the sea. After all, Crerar Hotels has accommodation here in Oban, too.